The Bighorn Mountains, Wyoming
SCENIC DRIVES
Check out this website about the Bighorn Mountains for some great info.
Bighorn Scenic Byway (US Highway 14)
Connects the cities of Sheridan and Greybull and includes 45 miles of scenic mountain driving. Spectacular views such as Fallen City (a field of limestone blocks), Steamboat Point, along with opportunities for fishing in Sibley Lake, Prune Creek and Little Tongue River. At Burgess Junction it splits from the Medicine Wheel Passage (14A). Watch for moose and deer around Burgess Junction. As you’re winding through the red, rocky walls of Shell Canyon, look for Rocky Mountain bluebirds among the juniper and sagebrush. Stretch your legs at Shell Falls before driving through the quaint town of Shell (population 50) to the town of Greybull.
The Red Gulch Dinosaur Tracksite, past the town of Shell, is the largest of its kind in the state and one of only a few in the world from the Middle Jurassic Period.
Interesting stops include Shell Falls (with a visitor center), Burgess Junction Visitor Center and Sand Turn.
Medicine Wheel Passage (US Highway 14A)
Follows US Highway 14 along the route of the Bighorn Scenic Byway. At Burgess Junction, the Medicine Wheel Passage continues on US 14A toward the town of Lovell.
This byway has a 10% grade in places, making it steeper than the Bighorn Scenic Byway. Travel through 25 miles of high alpine meadows with stunning views of the Bighorn Basin below.
Stretch your legs at Observation Point (Elevation 9,430 ft) or take a small hike to see the Medicine Wheel National Historic Landmark (largest site in North America) or Porcupine Falls. Before reaching the town of Lovell, take a small detour to the Bighorn National Recreation Area.
The Cloud Peak Skyway (US Highway 16)
Connects the city of Buffalo and the town of Tensleep, crosses the southern Bighorn National Forest and offers breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks along its 45 mile length.
Highlights include Hospital Hill, Powder Pass, MeadowLark Lake and Tensleep Canyon (west of Meadowlark Lake).
Crazy Woman Canyon (south of Cloud Peak Skyway)
One of the favorite outings for locals looking for a beautiful drive and a nice, cool place to picnic in the middle of the summer. Crazy Woman Canyon offers a close up view of beautiful rock formations as it hugs a roaring mountain stream along its way. This tour follows a single dirt lane through high canyon walls and ends with a great view of the surrounding Big Horn Mountains.
Hiking and Activities in the Bighorns
Click here for a complete list of Bighorn Mountain hiking trails.
Northern Bighorn Mountain Hikes (off of US 14)
Steamboat Point hike (Trail #630). The strenuous climb ascends almost 600 feet in less than a mile. The view at the top offers panoramic views of the Cloud Peak Wilderness, and is the most frequently photographed spot in the Bighorns. The trailhead is located steps from the highway, and the faint trail leads up the hill. Keep left when the trail forks and work your way through rock features and up onto the plateau, where spectacular mountain vistas await and beautiful sunsets can be seen.
Porcupine Falls - 0.8 mile round trip hike - it’s steep! The falls pour out of a granite wall and tumble hundreds of feet to a pool below. This is your own private swimming hole for the afternoon.
Wyoming's Porcupine Falls and Bucking Mule Falls Are Breathtaking
If you continue on the dirt road for a few more miles; you’ll end at the trailhead for Bucking Mule Falls (4.3 miles out and back). The hike to the canyon and the falls overlook weaves through forests, crosses shallow streams, and reveals a side of the Bighorns often unseen.
The Medicine Wheel - an ancient ceremonial Indian site that is still used today for cultural and ritualistic events by the Crow and Northern Cheyenne. A sunset visit is a surreal experience.
Black Mountain Lookout Hike (or Fire Tower Hike)
4 miles roundtrip. (if you have 4 wheel drive and the snow is gone you can drive up a mile closer to a small turn around area, and make it a 2 mile hike roundtrip). 360 view at the top. Look out over the Cloud Peak Wilderness (snow capped, largest mountains in the Bighorns).
Tongue River Canyon
The canyon is one of the most iconic hikes in Wyoming. Its fabled “Needles Eye” rock formation, caves, pristine waters for trout fishing, and luxuriant forest come together to paint an unforgettable scene.
It’s a long out and back multi-purpose adventure trail. From the parking lot you start out surrounded by huge limestone walls. The first 2 ½ miles of the trail run along the river. Most people just go to the bridge at the Tongue River Cave Trail before turning back.
The Amsden Creek Habitat area is north of the Tongue River Canyon, in the foothills of the Bighorns. In the winter, over 300 elk migrate from the forest to this area while birds, elk and mule deer can be spotted throughout the year.
South Piney Creek - the 1.3 mile trail is located in the forested Story, Wyoming, and works its way up a Bighorn Mountain canyon. This short but naturally stunning hike offers crystal clear streams, thick ponderosa pine forest, and limestone cliffs. Lots of wildlife.
Tower Ridge (Soldier Ridge Trail). 4.2 miles of trail, trailhead is only 5 minutes from Sheridan.
Southern Bighorn Mountain Hikes (off US 16)
10 miles out and back, not particularly strenuous.
Waterfalls, wildflowers, Mirror Lake (looks gorgeous, is a short side trail), eventually come to the Lost Twin Lakes. Glacier lakes with crystal clear turquoise water. Can camp here before heading back.
Be conscious if anyone shows signs of altitude sickness!!
Tensleep Falls Hike (recommended by a friend) is a 1.5 mile out and back trail with a lake and multi-tiered view of a beautiful waterfall. Follow the parking loop around to the far side and watch for the trail sign at a smaller parking pullout. Hike a bit further down the trail to find some great places for the kids to play in the creek.
Cloud Peak: The highest point in the Bighorns at 13,171 feet. It is the 15th tallest mountain in the US. Cloud Peak Glacier is located here.
LAKES AND FISHING RECOMMENDATIONS
When fishing the 189,000 acre wilderness area of the Bighorns, make sure to stop by Quill Gordon’s and grab some hand tied caddisflies. Both brook trout and arctic grayling are known to prey on these.
Bighorn Lake, located on US Highway 14A, it’s popular for walleye fishing.
Lake Desmet is the largest lake in the area with excellent year round fishing. Brown and rainbow trout, rock bass and yellow perch are all popular.
The Big Red Barn - the best local art gallery is close to the lake
Park Reservoir is stocked with brown, cutthroat and rainbow trout. It’s popular for its panoramic wilderness views, sandy beaches, and its trout population. The shortest access is via unpaved beautiful Red Grade Road (State 26) just outside Big Horn, Wyoming.
Sam Mavrakis Pond is located near Sheridan’s city center, and on a warm evening becomes one of the region’s most popular – and laid back – fishing destinations.
Sibley Lake is located off US Highway 14 in the Bighorn Mountains. A picturesque alpine lake surrounded by towering pines, Sibley is a great recreation destination, and a fine place to spot moose early in the morning or late in the evening. Motorized watercraft are not allowed on Sibley, and is a great place to catch brook, cutthroat and rainbow trout.
The Kleenburn Ponds, north of Sheridan, is a scenic natural area with fishing opportunities (monstrous largemouth bass) and wildlife viewing.
The lower Tongue River, South Park Recreation Area (in Sheridan), and Tongue River Reservoir (in Montana) are just a few other places that contain healthy populations of bass. The Tongue River Reservoir, north of Sheridan, is famous for its massive stock of Northern Pike and ice fishing.
Weston Reservoir, just below the wilderness boundary, is well known for its grayling.
SHERIDAN
This site has great listings of all of the campgrounds and trails available
Restaurants
Cowboy Cafe - wild game options
Shabby Shack - Peaches and Cream French Toast is a favorite
Wyoming Cattle & Creek - fresh catch from the Bighorns
The Mint Bar is the most iconic
Rib and Chop and Frackletons were recommended by a local.
Museums
Kings Saddlery Museum - one of the best western museums in the nation, showcasing a fabulous collection of cowboy memorabilia including hundreds of saddles, wagons, chaps, spurs, antique gems, Indian artifacts as well as a variety of wild game animals.
Sheridan County Museum
Other Activities
Story Fish Hatchery - take the back roads out to the hamlet of Story, tucked into the mountains south of Sheridan.
Skylab at Fort Phil Kearny is close to Story. Once the most fought over military post on the Northern Plains it is now a National Historic Landmark that offers four interpretive trails, a bookstore, museum, video and picnic ground
Watch the community calendar for live country music performances at the WYO Theater, Trails End Concert Park, and Luminous Brewhouse.
Kendrick Park has live music every Tuesday at 7:30 during July and August. There are buffalo and elk here.
There is a walking trail through town.
BUFFALO
Free public pool in the center of town (the mountain spring water is cold!).
Clear Creek (mountain stream) runs through town, and is good for fishing. Clear Creek Trail head is in the park.
Restored steam engine in the park.
Restaurant:
The Dash Inn was recommended by a local friend
BIG HORN
Big Horn has the back entrance into the Bighorn Mountains via Red Grade Road (seasonally open).
Polo Matches on Thursdays and Sundays are recommended.
LOVELL
Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Center. 145 mustangs roam wild. They have Spanish-American heritage.
GENERAL INFO
No Grizzly bears. There are black bears, moose, elk, and mountain lions.
Bring lots of layers - it can be chilly at high elevations!
The Bighorn National Forest, including the Cloud Peak Wilderness, is unique and diverse. Within the National Forest area, you can encounter grass prairies, evergreen forests, mountain meadows, rugged alpine peaks, dramatic canyons, arid desert, and cascading waterfalls - all within a day's journey.
Info on Ranger Stations:
Stop there for maps or to register for backcountry camping
BIGHORN MOUNTAIN LODGES
Has a restaurant, campground, and camping cabins. Reviews indicate it’s not always well maintained.
Some reviews say it has a good restaurant.
It has a restaurant and also a Condo Cabin that can sleep 8 people comfortably.
CAMPING OPTIONS (listed from north to south)
Sheridan Camping - this website has an interactive map with listings of all lodging and campsites.
Sibley Lake Campground.
Best Campsites 4 (tent only), 5 (close to the lake), 8, 10, 12, 18, 22 (21 and 22 are private). Fishing pier for trout. Great wildlife viewing. Vault toilets. Is a good “central” location. 1 hour past Sheridan. On the Scenic Byway close to Burgess Junction. 7950 ft. Electric sites are available.
North Tongue Campground
Near the Burgess Junction, 7800 feet, vault toilets, potable water
Prune Creek Campground
East of Burgess Junction, in the pine trees, potable water, vault toilet, 7650 ft. Central location. **We stayed here and saw several moose in the campground every day we were there.
.Tie Flume Campground
South of Burgess Junction, off on Red Grade Road. 8300 ft. $18/night. Vault toilets, potable water. 23 RV, 24 tent.
Owen Creek Campground
On Hwy 14 south of the Burgess junction, 8500 feet, vault toilet, potable water.
Dead Swede Campground
Elevation 8550, Off 14, on S. Tongue River, remote, vault toilets.
Shell Creek Campground - South of Burgess Junction. Pictures look pretty.
Cabin Creek Meadows Campground - decent location.
Cabin Creek Campground - decent location.
Medicine Lodge State Archeological Site - tent sites only
East Fork Campground - 7500 ft., on a creek, very remote, vault toilets, potable water. First come first serve.
Cross Creek Campground - no fee, remote, close to lots of lakes, first come first served, vault toilets.
Ranger Creek Campground
Tie Hack Campground - on Tie Hack Lake
West Tensleep Lake Campground - far off any main roads, access to Cloud Peak Wilderness Trails. Friends have camped here and loved it. It looks beautiful!
Little Goose Campground - no fee, remote, vault toilet, no water.
Lower Paintrock Lake Campground - right on the lake, first come first serve.
Lake Stop Resort - RV, tent, pool, showers. Doesn’t look very pretty (brown, rolling hills, no trees), but it is by a lake.
Sheridan/Bighorn Mountains KOA
Jim Gatchell Campground is run by Johnson County on Lake DeSmet. First come first served.
There are a few spots with electricity. No showers (you can shower for a fee at The Lake Stop Resort), but they do have restrooms. It’s right on the lake, and some sites basically have a private beach. Lots of petrified wood. Pretty sunsets. At the north end of Lake DeSmet (Piney Creek, exit 44) there are 2 little rocky beaches that are great for finding petrified wood.
Getting Here - Lazy R Campground & Cabins - north of Sheridan, east of the Bighorns. Closer to the Burgess Junction area.
Sitting Bull Campground - in the southern part of the Bighorns. Close to a lake for great trout fishing, and see lots of moose!
Buffalo Wyoming Motel - also has tents, RV and cabins available. Looks beautiful.
DEVILS TOWER
Devils Tower National Monument (U.S. National Park Service) - America’s first National Monument.
You will have to purchase an entrance pass.
Tower Trail
1.3-miles, paved. It is the most popular trail, and starts across the parking area from the Visitor Center. A short, steep section leads you to a junction where you can walk either way around the base of the Tower. The trail goes through a ponderosa pine forest and the boulder field. You will notice small bundles attached to the trees. These are Native American prayer cloths, and represent the spiritual connection many tribes have with the Tower.
Red Beds Trail
2.8 mile loop offers great views of the Tower and surrounding Belle Fourche River valley. You can access this trail from the Visitor Center parking area, or connect to it from one of the other park trails. Parts of this trail are steep, as it climbs up and down between the river valley and Visitor Center.
Joyner Ridge Trail
1.5 mile loop along the north boundary of the park. One of the more scenic but less utilized trails in the park, it provides beautiful views of the Tower, especially around sunset. Access the trailhead by taking the dirt road from the main park road as you head to or leave the Visitor Center. A 0.6-mile connector trail links Joyner Ridge with Red Beds. The east end of this trail has a significant elevation change, dropping from or climbing to the ridge depending on your direction.
South Side/Valley View Trails
Both of these trails start from the amphitheater and proceed through the prairie dog town 0.6 miles to link into the Red Beds Trail. A nice 1.5-mile circuit can be made from the amphitheater by using a section of Red Beds.
SAMPLE ITINERARY (Make sure all locations are entered in the GPS. Limited reception in the mountains!)
Day 1 (we stayed at Prune Creek Campground)
Drive to Prune Creek Campground
Stop on the way at Sand Turn for a beautiful view, and at Fallen City to see the field of limestone blocks
Set up camp and make dinner.
Evening - go fishing at Sibley Lake.
Day 2 (we stayed at Prune Creek Campground)
Drive to see Medicine Wheel National Historic Landmark (37 minutes west) and then continue 20 minutes down the road to see Porcupine Falls. If desired, continue an additional 10 minutes to the trailhead for Bucking Mule Falls.
Optional: continue on to Bighorn Lake for good walleye fishing.
Evening - Steamboat Point hike (Trail #630). The strenuous climb ascends almost 600 feet in less than a mile. The view at the top offers panoramic views of the Cloud Peak Wilderness, and is the most frequently photographed spot in the Bighorns. The trailhead is located steps from the highway, and the faint trail leads up the hill. Keep left when the trail forks and work your way through rock features and up onto the plateau, where spectacular mountain vistas await and beautiful sunsets can be seen. (***This sunset view was one of the trip highlights for us)
Day 3 (we stayed at Prune Creek Campground)
Drive 33 minutes southwest to see Shell Falls. On the way down to Shell there is a pull off to the right where you can walk to a beautiful rocky pool for a quick swim break.
Lunch - at one of the lodges near Burgess Junction or in Shell
Choose an afternoon hike. The 2 mile round trip Black Mountain Lookout Hike for panoramic views or the Tongue River Canyon Hike are both great options.
Head back to camp and go fishing at Sibley Lake.
Day 4
Pack up camp.
Explore Sheridan.
Take the Piney Creek exit to visit Lake DeSmet and spend some time rock hunting on the beach.
Explore Buffalo and go swimming at one of the world's largest outdoor pools.
Camp on Lake DeSmet or get a hotel in Buffalo.
Day 5
If you have 4 wheel drive, and you’re up for adventure, drive the Crazy Woman Canyon road (east to west so you’re going uphill).
Drive the Cloud Peak Skyway. Highlights Include:
Hospital Hill - just into the Bighorns on the eastern edge
Tie Hack Lake/Picnic area for fishing on Hwy 21
Powder Pass - 9,666 ft elevation, east of Meadowlark Lake
MeadowLark Lake - great fishing. Has a picnic site.
Tensleep Canyon - Over the western side of the Bighorns the Canyon begins as a small creek bed and grows to massive gorges which handily dwarf the landscape around them.
OR the Tensleep Falls Hike north of 16 has been recommended by friends. Great trail and a creek to play in by the falls. 32 minute drive north off of 16.
Day 6
Drive 2 hours east to see Devils Tower before heading home.
